an　old　square…built　stone　ch鈚eau　on　a　ledge　on　the　side　of　the　mountain…side　with　the　terraced　fields　of　vines；　each　vine　tied　to　a　stick　to　hold　it　up；　the　vines　dry　and　brown　and　the　earth　ready　for　the　snow　and　the　lake　down　below　flat　and　gray　as　steel。　The　road　went　down　a　long　grade　below　the　ch鈚eau　and　then　turned　to　the　right　and　went　down　very　steeply　and　paved　with　cobbles；　into　Montreux。

We　did　not　know　any　one　in　Montreux。　We　walked　along　beside　the　lake　and　saw　the　swans　and　the　many　gulls　and　terns　that　flew　up　when　you　came　close　and　screamed　while　they　looked　down　at　the　water。　Out　on　the　lake　there　were　flocks　of　grebes；　small　and　dark；　and　leaving　trails　in　the　water　when　they　swam。

In　the　town　we　walked　along　the　main　street　and　looked　in　the　windows　of　the　shops。　There　were　many　big　hotels　that　were　closed　but　most　of　the　shops　were　open　and　the　people　were　very　glad　to　see　us。　There　was　a　fine　coiffeur's　place　where　Catherine　went　to　have　her　hair　done。　The　woman　who　ran　it　was　very　cheerful　and　the　only　person　we　knew　in　Montreux。　While　Catherine　was　there　I　went　up　to　a　beer　place　and　drank　dark　Munich　beer　and　read　the　papers。　I　read　the　Corriere　della　Sera　and　the　English　and　American　papers　from　Paris。　All　the　advertisements　were　blacked　out；　supposedly　to　prevent　munication　in　that　way　with　the　enemy。　The　papers　were　bad　reading。　Everything　was　going　very　badly　everywhere。　I　sat　back　in　the　corner　with　a　heavy　mug　of　dark　beer　and　an　o